A Walk on the Wild Side

Disclaimer: the content of this website is mine alone and does not necessarily reflect the views of the U.S. government, the Peace Corps, or the South African Government.

On the eastern borders of the provinces of Limpopo and Mpumalanga lies Kruger National Park.  This is one of the largest National Parks in South Africa, and is home to many species of bird, reptile, and mammal, including Africa’s Big 5.  The park covers over 7500 miles which, for those looking for a comparison in the United States, is more than double the size of Yellowstone National Park in Montana and Wyoming.  Because Human Rights Day, a day that commemorates the sacrifices made on the path to democracy in South Africa, fell on March 21 (the anniversary of the Sharpeville Massacre of 1960), I had a long weekend that enabled me to visit Kruger with three of my fellow volunteers.  We were driven through the park by a South African friend who has been going on game drives since childhood and was able to spot signs of nearby animals, helping us to see as many as possible on our drive.

We began our drive around 11am, entering the Phabeni Gate near Hazyview in Mpumalanga.  We drove slowly through the roads, keeping an eye out for animals, for about two hours.  After the early part of our drive we stopped in Skukuza, a small rest stop with lodging and dining options inside the park.  After a break to have lunch and rest a bit we embarked on an afternoon drive for another three hours.  We exited the park through the Numbi Gate and made our way back to Hazyview for a light dinner at Tanks Bush Pub near the backpackers where we were staying.

There are benefits and drawbacks to a safari based on the time of year in which you choose to go.  One of the greatest benefits of a game drive this time of year (the rainy season) is that the landscape is absolutely breath-taking.  Everything is green and lush, rivers are flowing, and there are baby animals all around.  While all of this is aesthetically pleasing, it can make spotting the animals very difficult.  We spotted two lions, but it was impossible to get pictures as they were sleeping in tall grass and only raised their heads long enough for us to know they were there (lions sleep about 20 hours per day).  Taking a safari during the dry season means that you will not experience the same foliage as during the rainy season, but it will be much easier to see the animals, especially because nature forces them to gather around limited water sources.

We were very fortunate on our drive that our expert guide was able to help us see three of Africa’s Big 5.  The Big 5, an old hunting term, includes lion, elephant, rhinoceros, buffalo, and leopard.  We were unable to see the elusive leopard or the rhino, although we were told that both were very nearby.  I have yet to see a rhino in the wild, which is absolutely crazy considering how big they are!  In addition to the Big 5 we saw giraffe, waterbuck, wildebeest, hippopotamus, cheetah, kudu, warthog, tortoise, and more impala than I ever cared to see in my life. The elephants were my absolute favorite, as I have been waiting to see an elephant since my arrival in Africa over a year ago, and it terrifies me just a little that I have yet to spot a crocodile because they hide so well (definitely not getting into the water here!).

Kasey, Sharsyea, Chris, and me at the Phabeni Gate

Visiting Kruger was a great experience, one I definitely plan to repeat before I leave South Africa.  When I looked at the prices of safaris before leaving the United States I thought that I would never be able to afford one, but there are very cost effective ways to visit Kruger and other safari destinations with proper research.  I highly recommend trying to have an experience like this at least once in your life…it is incomparable.

Surviving a Tropical Depression

Disclaimer: the content of this website is mine alone and does not necessarily reflect the views of the U.S. government, the Peace Corps, or the South African Government.

It has been a month of ups and downs for me.  The highs have been very high, and the lows have managed to get pretty low, even making me think that I was going through a tropical depression internally while a tropical depression raged just outside my door.  The one year mark of service has been cited as a low point for many volunteers, and that makes sense.  We watch as those in the cohort that arrived one year before us start to go back to the United States, which is both inspiring and disheartening for those of us remaining in country.  I look at all I have accomplished in the last year and am both amazed and proud, but then I see the mountain that is year two looming just ahead of me…and I feel too exhausted to continue some days.

When I moved to my current village I was placed with an organization that focuses on victim empowerment.  I worked with them for about three months before leaving to celebrate my Christmas holiday in the United States.  In that three months I established relationships with my co-workers and started planning projects that we would implement together upon my return.  When I returned from my holiday I learned that my co-workers were on what sounded like a strike, and as I write this they have yet to return.  The disappearance of my organization forced me to become a self-starter in order to manage the copious amount of free time I suddenly had. 

Before leaving for holiday my organization and I planned an afterschool program for girls at the secondary school in my village for term one (January-March).  Luckily, the school was more than happy to have me implement this intervention so I was able to continue, albeit without a counterpart.  It would have been nice to have a counterpart from my organization with me for Zazi, but despite the lack of an adult counterpart many of the girls in my program have emerged as leaders among the group.  I have high hopes for them, and will conclude their program by teaching them about giving back to their community.  It is my hope that these girls will step forward to act as my counterparts for future interventions both at their school, at the primary school nearby, and throughout the community.

The relationship that I established with the drop-in center through red rover and duck, duck, goose has been invaluable during this moment of uncertainty.  The caregivers learned about my Zazi program at the school and asked that I conduct a similar program with them so that they can learn about gender empowerment.  They have also asked for more programming at the drop-in center so I will work closely with them during term two to teach the children about different countries, Grassroots Soccer, and assist with homework and language skills.  I absolutely love going to the drop-in center, as they say that I am one of them and that I cannot leave next year.  Some have even offered to help me to concoct a plan to bring my niece over here, as they think she is the only reason I want to return home and that if she were here I would stay forever.

I also had the good fortune of a solid foundation with the Home Based Care in the community, which is in large part due to the great legacy left by previous Peace Corps Volunteers in the village next to mine.  The project manager has gone out of his way to help me to find things to do with his organization that allow me to use my technical skills, and also provide the intellectual stimulation I find so necessary for personal fulfilment. Currently we are working with the drop-in center on a grant application.  I love working with the project managers from both organizations because we really do have a team effort, and I get to combine the information that they are providing with my sales experience to try to “sell” the organization to the potential donor.  I love that I am learning and that I am privileged to watch them learn as well.

There have been many challenges since my return from holiday, and I would be lying if I said I never think about how quitting would be so much easier than staying.  One thing I have started doing to prevent myself from taking that easy out has been to schedule things far enough in advance that I can’t quit at the moment because I have a pending event.  Currently on the schedule is my GRE, which I will take on May 5.  Studying for the GRE has been a great way to use all of the free time afforded me in the past month, and I am hoping that this will mean a score stellar enough to apply to some very sought after graduate programs.  The best thing I have learned, and continue to learn each day, is just how resilient I am.