Saturday, April 2, 2016

From bougie to basic


Disclaimer: the content of this website is mine alone and does not necessarily reflect the views of the U.S. government, the Peace Corps, or the South African Government.



It has been a while, and so much has happened over the last ten weeks.  I was officially sworn in as a Peace Corps Volunteer on March 31, 2016, and was taken from swearing in to the village where I will work and live for the next two years.  Here are some of the highlights that took place in the weeks leading up to this moment.

On January 18, 2016, I left Ontario Airport in California for Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.  I met the other 32 members of my volunteer cohort at an event called staging.  We participated in icebreakers and role plays, which provided a glimpse of how our lives might look as volunteers.  We departed for JFK airport at 2am on January 20, 2016.  Miraculously, we all made it to the flight and departed on our 16 hour flight to Johannesburg.

Upon arrival to South Africa we gathered our luggage and boarded several vans, which took us to a conference center in Mpumalanga Province.  We spent ten days getting to know each other, attending sessions to learn about our upcoming service, and learning to which language group we would be assigned.  It was exciting and overwhelming, but we had not even scratched the surface.

On January 31 we were taken to a meeting room in a small village about half an hour from the conference center where we had been staying to meet the families that would host us for the next two months.  I have never been adopted so I cannot say with certainty that the emotions I felt were the same that a child feels when going to meet a new family, but I can only imagine that the emotions are similar.  I was so apprehensive!  I had no idea whether my family would speak English, whether there would be running water and an indoor bathroom at the home, what chores I would be expected to do, or even if they would like me.  I was matched with a very sweet Gogo (grandmother), and taken to her husband’s waiting bakkie (pick-up truck).  Mkhulu (grandfather) and Gogo drove me to their home.  Mkhulu spoke to me and pointed to things all the way home, but it was all in Zulu and I had no idea what he was saying.  Upon arrival I was shown to my room and given a host sister, who turned out to be an absolute Godsend during my stay! 

I spent two months in Gogo and Mkhulu’s home, learning about rural South African culture, figuring out bucket baths, and learning to wash clothes by hand.  The family discovered my lack of culinary prowess quite quickly, so I simply helped cut vegetables and dish up dinner plates.  It had been emphasized to us that we should become part of the family rather than behaving as a houseguest, so I jumped in and began washing dishes each night.  This was in part because I had been told that I was in a patriarchal society where women are expected to do much of the housework.  Apparently in Gogo’s house it was expected that my three teenage host brothers take turns washing the dishes, and the boys simply did not share that information because they were getting out of doing chores because I misunderstood the rules.  I can’t even get mad at that because I would have done the same thing to someone when I was a teenager!  Gogo figured out what was going on after a week or so and put a very quick stop to that behavior.  We took turns after that.

During the day I attended language classes and technical sessions each day.  I was assigned siSwati as my target language.  SiSwati is part of the Nguni family, along with isiNdebele, isiZulu, and Xhosa.  The village in which I stayed spoke isiNdebele, and the family with which I stayed spoke isiZulu, so I was afforded the opportunity to practice my language skills at home.  At first I would write out what I wanted to say and read the card to Mkhulu and Gogo (who both speak very little English).  They would look at me confused for a while, then would read the card themselves and acknowledge that they understood what I was trying to say.  Eventually I was able to tell them simple things, such as where I was going and when I would be back.  When I did this for the first time without writing it out first Gogo got a huge smile on her face, clapped her hands, and chanted “number one, number one” to me.  It was so encouraging!  Gogo also gave me my village name on Valentine’s Day: Thandi, which means “love.”

So much took place in the short two months that I stayed with this wonderful family.  I can now successfully bucket bathe.  I can semi-successfully hand wash my clothing.  I was able to handle food poisoning using an outdoor latrine (no simple feat), and I have learned to carry toilet paper with me wherever I go.  My host siblings and their friends taught me so much about the culture of the Ndebele and Zulu people, including customs surrounding weddings, funerals, and coming of age.  I am so grateful for the homestay I enjoyed, and my host sister and I plan to visit one another in the future.

I now embark on the next leg of this adventure.  I have moved to a region of the Mpumalanga Province known as “the pocket.”  I am 45 kilometers from the borders of Mozambique, Swaziland, and Kruger National Park.  This is arguably one of the most beautiful spots in the country (everything is so green and lush), and is also one of the hottest spots in the country.  I will work for a home based care organization in a small village that has gone to great trouble to ensure my comfort during my stay with them.  There will be hiccups along the way (cobras come out at night here), but I am hoping that after two months I will be as reluctant to leave my new family as I was to leave my homestay family on March 31.  The pastor of one of the churches in my new village arranged an interpreter for his message on the day I attended.  I was so glad he did!  He spoke from Jeremiah: for I know the plans I have for you, says the Lord, plans to prosper and not to harm you.  It was exactly what I needed to hear that day to prepare me to look past the discomforts and find the positive points in my new home and new village.  The next three months will be spent in “lock-down” as I become acquainted with my new village and conduct my needs assessment.  If anyone feels so inclined, a letter of encouragement or a bag of skittles in the mail are most appreciated!  If you would like my new address, please private message me or my mom to get it.

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